How to Change the Clutch in a Honda Passport Or Isuzu Rodeo
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Before lifting the truck, remove the two shift knobs and the shift boot. There are four Phillips head screws that hold the boot in place. Two are hidden under covers.
Put the transmission in neutral. Remove the three 12mm head bolts that hold the main shifter n place. Pull straight up on the shifter to remove it.
Put the transfer case in 2wd. Remove the two bolts that hold this shifter in place. Pull straight up to remove it.
Locate two wires connection to one of the sensor on near the top of the transmission. Disconnect these through the shifter boot opening. It is much easier to get to this way than from below.
Raise the vehicle and support it firmly. Remove the front cross member that goes from one front wheel to the other. This step is optional, but gives easier access.
Remove the two skid plates. Support the transmission and remove the transmission support cross member. It is held to the frame by eight bolts with 17mm heads and to the transmission support by two nuts.
Remove the oxygen sensor wiring connector. Disconnect the Y pipe at the down pipe and at the catalytic converter. These bolts may be rusty due to heat so using a rust breaker solvent like PB Blaster may help. Be careful not to damage the gaskets if you plan to reuse them.
Remove the lower round inspection plate and check to see if the throw out bearing is still connected to the pressure plate. If the clutch pedal does not cause the clutch to disengage, it is usually because this connection has come apart. If it is still connected, the normal service procedure calls for it to be disconnected at this point. To disconnect it, insert a flat screw driver between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate and twist. You may have to twist it in a couple of places to get it loose. Or, you can leave it in place and carefully let the bearing slip off the fork when you pull the transmission.
Remove the slave cylinder by removing the two 12mm headed bolts. You can leave the guard attached to the cylinder and the hose attached as well. Remove the wiring guard.
Remove the one 10mm headed bolt and the one 17mm headed bolt that holds the cover to the transmission. Leave the cover in place. The starter can stay in place as well.
Disconnect the rear drive shaft from the transfer case. Use a pry bar through the U joint to keep it from turning while use a 14mm box end wrench on the four bolts. Tie it up out of the way.
Disconnect the front drive shaft from the front axle using a procedure similar to the rear drive shaft. Leave the shaft attached to the transfer case and tie it to the case.
Remove the wiring harness by disconnecting the bullet connector and the connector for the sped sensor at the rear. Mark the wires so you can put them back to the proper sensor.
Secure the transmission to a transmission jack. This transmission seems exceptionally heavy for its compact size so be very careful. The balance point is near mount.
Remove the six 17mm headed bolts that hold the transmission to the engine. I use several extensions and put the socket on a swivel joint to get the out.
Slide the transmission straight back off the engine being careful not to let any weight rest on the input shaft as it exits the clutch disk. Continue moving the transmission back until it clears the exhaust and then let it down.
Inspect the clutch and pressure plate assembly for damage and wear.
New parts are normally only available as a matched set. Be sure to resurface or replace the flywheel if the clutch disk is replaced.
Install the new clutch disk using the alignment tool with the kit. Make sure it is centered and the tool slides in and out easily.
In order to prevent the throw out bearing from popping loose at its disconnect point, I chose to weld the disconnect clip to permanently fix it to the pressure plate. I did this by putting the throw out bearing on the pressure plate and MIG welding the clip in several places to keep it from coming back off.
To reconnect it as the factory intended, slip the throw out bearing over the input shaft and put the pressure plate up as normal. Connect them together after the transmission is in place.
Make sure the clutch plate is centered and bolt the pressure plate in place. Tighten the bolts is a crisscross manner to compress the springs evenly. Check again that the alignment tool moves easily in and out of the disk.
Remove the oblong inspection plate from near the slave cylinder mount. Position the transmission on its jack to slide straight into the engine. You may have to support the rear of the engine to help with the alignment.
If you have welded the throw out bearing, carefully work the release forks into the tabs on the bearing as you mate up the transmission. Use a long screwdriver through the inspection hole to put the fork in place.
Slide the transmission firmly into place. Replace the six bolts that hold the transmission to the engine. Make sure the lower cover is aligned properly before tightening them to their proper torque.
Replace the wiring harness and reconnect the sensors. Leave the top one for when you are back inside the vehicle. Replace the wiring guard.
Replace the slave cylinder and make sure the actuating pin properly indexes in the release fork. If you did not weld the throw out bearing, use the release fork to press it into place before connecting the slave cylinder. Replace the two inspection plates.
Put the front cross member back in place. Reconnect the two drive shafts. Reinstall the Y pipe and reconnect the oxygen sensor wire.
Reinstall the transmission support cross member. Reinstall the two skid plates.
Lower the vehicle and working from inside reconnect the top sensor wire. Replace the two shifters and the shift boot and shift knobs.
Test the clutch. If the throw out bearing pops loose as indicated by the pedal suddenly going all the way to the floor, take it all back apart and weld the clip.
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